Regional French Cuisine: Savoie: Tartiflette

30 03 2009

You didn’t think I could get through Savoie month without discussing Tartiflette, did you?  I’ve made variations on the theme in my kitchen before, but this time, I wanted to try my hand at the real deal.  Using Robuchon’s recipe as a reference, I began by sautéeing lardons and added thinly sliced leeks once the bacon had rendered.  (Onions would be more traditional, but the CSA people keep sending me leeks.)

Bacon and leeks - before

While the leek-bacon mixture cooked, I cut some potatoes (also from the CSA panier – look at me, cooking all local and organic!) into cubes – didn’t bother peeling them – and boiled them until they were tender.  When the leeks were beginning to caramelize, I poured some white wine into the pan and let it cook a few minutes longer until the wine was reduced to a glaze.

Wine-braised leeks and lardons

I scraped this heavenly-smelling concoction over the drained potatoes and stirred gently to coat the potatoes in the bacony, winey goodness.

All this was transferred to my oval gratin dish, where it awaited its final garnish and trip to the oven.

So far, so good...

The final garnish consisting of, besides the drizzle of cream, half a Reblochon cheese.  (You gotta love any dish that calls for half a wheel of cheese!)

Reblochon de Savoie

Reblochon is an AOC, washed-rind, cow’s milk cheese.  It is traditionally made from the second milking of the day, which produces a richer, creamier product.  The cheese is washed in saltwater or whey and aged at least a month.  The distinctive orange rind has a bit of a musty flavor, while the cheese inside is smooth, nutty, and very savory.  This time, I happened to get my Reblochon at the Alléosse fromagerie.  With their cavessituated beneath the streets of Paris, you can be sure that any cheese purchased here is at the peak of its ripeness.  The Reblochon I got was perfect – gooey in the center with a slightly firm rind.  Most of the tartiflettes I’ve seen simply have the cheese sliced in half horizontally and placed rind-side-up on top of the potatoes.  Robuchon, however, suggests removing the rind and cutting the cheese into cubes, which is exactly what I did.  I then scattered them on top of the potato mixture and baked the tartiflette until the cheese had fully melted into the depths of the gratin.

Potatoes, bacon, and cheese - the prefect dish?

Yeah, it’s as good as it looks.  Better, even.  Tartiflette absolutely MUST be served with a salad – I ate it with broiled endives in hazelnut vinaigrette – and a glass of white wine.  It makes great leftovers, too.  In fact, I’m having it again tonight.  Don’t worry, I got a nice big lettuce in the panier, too.

Originally published on Croque-Camille.




8 responses

30 03 2009

Only half a wheel? Are you dieting?

30 03 2009

First the Raclette, now this! You really are trying to kill me–I would even eat this for a movie snack! lol

31 03 2009

This looks and sounds so amazingly delicous. I was going to try and be good this weekend after three weekends in a row of indulging, but this is just too good to resist!

31 03 2009

Wow, panier bio tartiflette! Now there’s a good idea. Say, don’t you think you might want to choose a region where it’s a bit more summer-y next month? When it starts getting warm, meat and cheese (despite how absolutely wonderful they are in all their combinations) are going to need a break 😉

31 03 2009
Reuben Morningchilde

Oh my god, my family so loves this recipe!

For a quick fix, I substitute the boiled potatoes with store-bought, fresh gnocci. But please don’t tell the AOC police… Makes for a gorgeous (and gorgeously filling) emergency dinner.

But definitely no match for the original – thanks a ton for reminding me what we’ll be having for dinner this weekend!

31 03 2009

Wow, that looks unbelievably good, I will have to try this!

31 03 2009

Gavin – Ha!

pastrychef – Oh, yeah, nothing wrong with some potatoes and cheese. And bacon. 😉

Jessica – Plus, you’ve got to get dishes like this in your belly now before it gets too hot to consider them!

Hopie – No worries, I’ve got it all planned out, as seasonally as possible. Next month there will be quite a bit of seafood, I imagine…

Reuben – Love the gnocchi idea! May have to try that one of these days.

Sam – It is. you will. 🙂

22 07 2009

J’ai testé et c’est vraiment délicieux !!!

Pour découvrir un peu plus de plats savoyards :

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