Celebrating holidays in a foreign country means making certain sacrifices. As a case in point, I have yet to see anything resembling a fresh cranberry in Paris. The various American épiceries are fully stocked with jars and cans of cranberry sauce, but if you want to make your own (like I always do) you’re out of luck. However, as you can probably imagine, the markets of Paris offer up an incredible bounty from which to devise seasonal dishes from locally-grown ingredients.
Like this potimarron. I forgot to get a picture of it before I stripped it bare, but there’s a good before photo here. Potimarron is one of the more commonly seen winter squashes in the Parisian markets, yet somehow I had yet to cook one. A little research turned up some interesting facts about the potimarron: the thin skin is edible, the name is derived from the French words for “pumpkin” and “chestnut,” and it apparently increases in sweetness and vitamin content the longer you store it (to a point, I’m sure).
I purchased the cute little squash about a week before Thanksgiving without any real plan regarding what to do with it. The same market trip yielded a bag of fingerling potatoes, another impulse buy. A few days later, when I realized it was high time I start getting my Thanksgiving menu in order, the two supremely seasonal vegetables jumped out at me.
Recalling a butternut squash gratin I have made in years past to generally good reviews, I thought I’d riff on the idea, working potatoes into the mix. The potimarron, taking after its namesake nut, is one of the starchier winter squashes out there. While this makes it able to hold its own when combined with potatoes, I didn’t want the dish to be too heavy (this was for Thanksgiving, after all). I figured the tangy sweetness of leeks simmered in hard cider would offset the richness of the squash and potatoes. Top it all off with my favorite fresh chèvre, and I had just the gratin I was looking for. I may not have had sweet potatoes as usual, (ed. note: except that I did, on this salad) but it didn’t feel like I was sacrificing a thing.
Click through for the recipe and Nick’s gorgeous photo.