The Winter Squash Saga, Part II: Dessert

28 10 2008

As I promised yesterday, I’m back today with the winter squash, orange, and sage dessert.  I initially liked the idea of using these ingredients in a dessert because it seemed like more of a challenge.  Sage, in particular, is not usually used in sweets and I thought I could do something interesting with it.

Warm, fragrant, and fuzzy, sage is the freshly laundered blanket of the herb family.

The squash part was easy.  Winter squash-based sweets abound: pumpkin pies, cheesecakes, muffins, and even pancakes feature on menus everywhere this time of year (well, not in the southern Hemisphere, I guess).  In my first restaurant job I was given a recipe for butternut squash flan.  I thought it was a great idea, but the stupid thing never worked right.  My theory was that if we had just put a thin layer of caramel in the bottom of the molds, like you’re suppposed to when you’re making flan aka crème caramel, they would have come out beautifully every time.

The correct way to make crème caramel

So I did just that.  I also reduced the amount of cream in favor of milk (not something you’ll hear me say very often), because traditionally, crème caramel is the lightest of the baked custards and made using only milk and whole eggs.  Plus, I wanted that lighter texture.  I think it balances the richness of the caramel and helps to make more of that delicious sauce you get when you finally unmold the dessert.  I snuck some of the orange butter into the caramel to play up the orange flavor in the squash (I reserved some from the lasagna and puréed it using my beloved immersion blender).

Water baths are not a big deal.

After a short spell in the oven, their custards were ready.  I prefer mine just-set, by which I mean barely holding together.  Feeling pleased with my success so far, I left the custards in the fridge to chill overnight.

“But what about the sage?”  You must be wondering.  In one of those flashes of inspiration, it came to me.

Pine nut-sage brittle!

I just love cooking with sugar.  Seriously.

Tweaking an old favorite recipe for peanut brittle took the guesswork out of the candy-making process… well, some of it.  I had to reduce the recipe by a lot (not needing to end up with five full sheet pans of brittle), convert it into metric, and figure out how and when to incorporate the sage.

Pulling the brittle - Photo by Nick

I decided that I wanted to maintain as much fresh sage flavor as possible, so I stirred in a chiffonade of sage leaves at the very end, right before pouring it out onto an oiled sheet pan.  (Silpat, I miss you.)  Wearing two pairs of latex gloves, I pulled and stretched the brittle into elegant, ethereal shapes before it hardened.

Pine Nut-Sage Brittle - Photo by Nick

And the flavor?  Ohmygod.  If you make no other recipe from this blog ever, make this one!  The spicy, warm flavor of the sage makes for an unforgettable confection when combined with the buttery crunch of the pine nuts and the crispy, bittersweet caramel.  Just try it.

Winter Squash Flan with Orange Caramel and Pine Nut-Sage Brittle - Photo by Nick

Taken all together, the brittle offered a nice textural contrast to the silky, delicate flan.  I think we have a winner!  (Seriously, though, if you want to help me out in that regard, head over to the Leftover Queen‘s Royal Foodie Joust and vote for me starting November 2nd.  I’m submitting both this and the lasagna.)

Winter Squash Flan with Orange Caramel

 

For the caramel:

 

160 g/5½ oz. sugar

Water

A few drops of apple cider vinegar

2 tsp. orange butter (see recipe for Winter Vegetable Lasagna)

 

  1. Combine the sugar in a medium saucepan with enough water to make a wet sand consistency.  Add the vinegar and cook over medium-high heat until a deep amber caramel forms.  This is generally just after it starts to smoke a bit.  If it smokes a lot and turns black, start over.
  2. Immediately remove the pan from heat and stir in the butter to stop the cooking.  Pour a thin layer of caramel into each of six ramekins (150 ml/5 oz. capacity or thereabouts).

For the custard:

 

240 g/8½ oz. puréed winter squash (preferably roasted)

490 ml/2 cups milk

60 ml/2 oz. cream

60 g/2 oz. brown sugar

2 eggs, lightly beaten

 

  1. Preheat oven to 175 C/350 F, and bring a kettle of water to a boil.
  2. Combine squash, milk, cream, and brown sugar in a saucepan.  Heat over medium heat, stirring frequently, until it comes to a simmer.  Remove from heat and let the mixture cool a bit.
  3. Pour a small amount of the hot milk mixture into the eggs, whisking constantly.  When all is combined, slowly whisk in the rest of the milk.  Strain the custard into a measuring jug or something with a pouring spout (this will make your life a lot easier).
  4. Set the caramel-lined ramekins on a rimmed sheet pan and evenly distribute the custard between them.  Place the pan into the oven and pour boiling water into the sheet pan so that it comes a little way up the sides of the ramekins.
  5. Bake about 20 minutes until the tops of the custards are just beginning to color.  They should jiggle slightly in the center and a thin-bladed knife inserted in between the center and the edge should come out clean.
  6. Remove the ramekins from the water bath and cool to room temperature.  Chill completely.
  7. To plate, run a thin-bladed knife around the outer edge of the custard.  Invert a serving plate over the ramekin and flip over so the plate is on the bottom.  If the custard hasn’t already slid out, gently shake or tap the ramekin until it does.  Serve alone or accompanied by pine nut-sage brittle. 

Serves 6.

 

* * *

 

Pine Nut-Sage Brittle

 

100 g/3½ oz. sugar

45 ml/1½ oz. water

70 g/2½ oz. honey

115 g/4 oz. pine nuts

A pinch of sea salt

½ Tbsp. butter (use orange butter if you have some on hand)

15 g/½ oz. fresh sage, chiffonnade (sliced into very thin strips)

¼ tsp. baking soda

 

  1. In a small saucepan, combine sugar, water, and honey.  Cook over medium-high heat until it reaches 129 C/264 F.
  2. Add the pine nuts and salt and cook, stirring frequently, to 159 C/318 F.
  3. Remove from heat and stir in the butter, then the sage, and finally the baking soda.  The candy will foam up, so be careful.
  4. Pour onto an oiled sheet pan (or a Silpat, if you’re lucky enough to have one), and spread into an even layer.  Let cool a few minutes.  At this point, you could just leave the brittle to harden completely, but it looks a lot sexier if you take the time to pull it into elegant shapes.  Wearing protective gloves (I use 2 pair of rubber or latex gloves) pick up a small portion of the edge of the brittle.  Carefully work your fingers underneath and when you have a big enough piece, pull it away from the mass and stretch it a bit.  Place the piece of brittle on a sheet of foil to harden.  Repeat until all the brittle has been stretched.
  5. Try not to eat it all in one sitting. 

Makes enough to garnish 6 flans, with leftovers for snacking.

Originally published on Croque-Camille.

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17 responses

28 10 2008
bakingforthecure

WOW! I must say that this is one of the most interesting desserts that I have ever seen. This loos like THE perfect dessert for winter! Also, the pictures look just lovely! Thanks!

28 10 2008
Colleen

Oh my god, indeed. I’m going to hold you hostage and have you make this when you get back to the states…along with the lasagne and a few other recipes that have made me weep at the hospital cafeteria lunch I usually eat while reading this blog…

28 10 2008
Apples and Butter

Looks like we were on the same wavelength this month! I just finished my acorn squash creme caramel for the joust. Sorry that our dishes are going to be so similar! Mine will be posted tomorrow if you want to check it out!

28 10 2008
Hopie

Wow, looks sumptuous! And so pretty!

28 10 2008
croquecamille

Baking – Thank you so much!

Colleen – You got it!

Apples – Funny. I’m looking forward to seeing your take on it!

Hopie – Thanks!

29 10 2008
Katie

This looks REALLY tasty. I love the winter squash in a flan.

29 10 2008
Trisha

I’m quite enjoying the saga. Will there be more to your tales of winter squash? I hope so, because that brittle is genius. And orange caramel! Both recipes are just delightful. Can’t wait to vote!

29 10 2008
Andrea

I’m glad you’re interested in Off the Shelf! I’d love to have you participate. I’m getting a little schedule together, so I’ll let you know a bit later on!

29 10 2008
croquecamille

Katie – Thanks, it was! :)

Trisha – No more in the works at the moment, but the season is young…

Andrea – Great!

29 10 2008
Sam

Pinenut sage brittle = Genius! It looks fantastic.

30 10 2008
Kristy Nuttall

Will vote and then vote some more!!! Good luck Camille!!!

30 10 2008
jodycakes

Hey Camille~
That message from Kristy is from all of us at WMDA~ ::smiles sheepishly::

SO GOOD LUCK! We’ll vote for ya!!! :)

Jody

30 10 2008
croquecamille

Sam – Gee, thanks. I’m blushing.

Kristy, Jody, et al. – Awesome!

31 10 2008
Jo

I can’t wait to try this!!!!! It sounds amazing! I will definitely vote for you – even put it on my calendar! Excellent!!!!

31 10 2008
croquecamille

Great, let me know how it comes out!

31 10 2008
JennDZ_The LeftoverQueen

That there my friend looks like heaven on a plate, I love custards of any kind and this is fabulous! Both components look wonderful! Thanks for such a great entry and best of luck in the Joust!

2 11 2008
croquecamille

Merci beaucoup!




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