Paris Pastry Crawl 2013: Éclairs: La Pâtisserie des Rêves

23 01 2013

And with nearly three-quarters of the vote, Paris Pastry Crawl is the undisputed winner!  Thank you all for voting, and now, let the gluttony commence.  We’re going to start off the series with the éclair, quite possibly the most iconic of all French pastries, and certainly the first I was familiar with, thanks to a francophile mother and the Beaverton Bakery (hey!  they’re still around!), where she used to take me and my brother after school for a treat if we’d been good… or maybe if she had a hankering herself.  Now, of course, I live in Paris, and finding an éclair doesn’t require a special trip, though sometimes it should.

anticipation...

La Pâtisserie des Rêves has been around for a few years now, but I admit I didn’t feel all that compelled to go.  Something about the bell jars covering the pastries on display just seemed so clinical.  Impersonal.  Sterile.  But just before Christmas, chef Philippe Conticini put out a gorgeous book (with an irresistible puffy cover).  Onto my Amazon wishlist it went, and what do you know? Santa Claus deemed that I had been a good girl.  Flipping through the pages, I realized that these pastries weren’t sterile at all.  The swoop of toasted meringue on the lemon tart, the overgrown rolled brioche, the opulent use of vanilla beans – this is the way I like to bake!  Obviously, a visit was now in order.

inside-out

Any éclair not covered in fondant automatically gets points in my book.  (We’ll discuss fondant and why it is evil in the next post.)  This one, wrapped entirely in chocolate – I don’t envy the person whose job that is, especially in the summertime – wins on that count.  Then it gets a shimmer of luster dust, my love-hate relationship with which I’ve mentioned before.

oooh, pretty.

Since the exterior is relatively difficult, they’ve taken the easy (although actually more traditional) route for filling the éclair by splitting it lengthwise before piping in the creamy center.

puddin'

The chocolate, inside and out, is a good quality Venezuelan 70% from the Chocolaterie de L’Opéra.  The filling is smooth and custardy, with rich, fruity chocolate flavor.  The pâte à choux is good, too, and what it lacks in crispness it makes up in lack of dryness and anyway, the chocolate shell has enough crunch to contrast with the tender pastry and gooey pastry cream.  At 5.50 a pop, these are some of the more expensive éclairs in town, but the size is generous and the quality evident, so worth an occasional splurge, for sure.

On this day in 2009: Endive Right In (Endive pizza! I’ve been thinking of making one this week, in fact.)

Originally published on Croque-Camille.

About these ads

Actions

Information

14 responses

23 01 2013
Lindsey Tramuta (@LostNCheeseland)

The éclair: forever to remembered as the source of my unfortunate weight gain when I first game to France. This. looks. killer!

23 01 2013
Lindsey Tramuta (@LostNCheeseland)

to be remembered*

23 01 2013
Ann

The éclair is my favorite pastry and the one from Pât Rêve (as I like to call it) is superb. After reading this post, I feel the need to make a special trip over there this week!

23 01 2013
thewayofthechiro

That is one epic eclair

24 01 2013
Wendy

being thousands of miles away from Paris, I’m now about to enjoy some hot chocolate in lieu of this amazing eclair. Signed, francophile mother

24 01 2013
researchingsandiego

Love that cross-section shot. I would love an eclair right about now! Although I’m ruined forever by the memory of the ElectroChoc from Fauchon. I’m guessing that you are more interested in quality over quantity this time around :) Looking forward to the fondant smack-down!

24 01 2013
Needful Things

I die.
I desperately need that eclair in my life. Immediately.

24 01 2013
croquecamille

Lindsey – Doesn’t everyone put on an éclair fifteen? ;)

Ann – I’m pretty much of the opinion now that Pat Rêve is always worth a special trip. :)

thewayofthechiro – You said it!

Mom – Thanks for instilling in me an enduring love of éclairs. Enjoy your hot chocolate!

researchingsandiego – Well, it was no 28 cm of pleasure…

Needful Things – That’s about how I felt when I saw it, too. :)

24 01 2013
Michel

I would love to try that eclair. Wow!

25 01 2013
croquecamille

Michel – It’s pretty impressive, isn’t it?

26 01 2013
Tammy

Wow. I’m gaining weight just thinking about that. Think I’ll hope on back to endive pizza instead.

26 01 2013
Hannah

I remember seeing a lot about this place on the Paris Patisseries blog, and feeling a bit odd about the glass jars too. But I trust you, infinitely.

Cheeeeeestnut. Cheeeeeestnuuuuuuuuuuuuuuts……

P.S. Ha! Camille, I just wrote this whole reply on my blog to you about how I too was amazed about how much I didn’t break down over my blog hacking… and now it seems my blog is down again. Seriously I think it’s something about Canada; Lisa, Ricki, and I (in Toronto) have all been plagued by hackers these past few months. ARGH!

27 01 2013
Inger Wilkerson

So beautiful (and I’ll bet it tastes even better)!

28 01 2013
croquecamille

Tammy – Not sure if that’s really any better… ;)

Hannah – Hm, something tells me I should spend a month eating Mont Blancs. So sucky about the hacking! I hope you get it sorted out without too much trouble.

Inger – Yep!




Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 317 other followers

%d bloggers like this: